A brief guide to paint interiors

Painting your home to give it a brand new look is a little different than painting it for staging purposes. Because a fresh coat of paint is one of the easiest as well as most cost effective ways to transform your living place into a good looking modern place. Of course, adding some fresh colour to the tired old walls will make a huge change, and it may even enhance the monetary value of your home.

But preparation is the key to get a great professional looking finish in any painting job. Check out a brief guide to interior paint preparation. So, we have prepared this brief guide to help you through the preparation and show you how to get the interior painting job done in a correct manner. This basic guide will help you to make your house look more modern without breaking your budget.

Choose Your Paint

What paints to choose and Where?

  • Generally, there are two types of paints – 1) Water-based and 2) Solvent-based. The type of paint you choose will depend on the surface you’re painting.
  • Paints that are water-based are very popular for most walls and ceiling surfaces. They can be easily applied and are touch dry within 20-30 minutes. Usually, they can be applied again in 3 to 4 hours and you can easily clean up with water.
  • A satin or semi-gloss finish acrylic produces a tough surface in high traffic places, including family rooms, kitchens, or children’s rooms where regular cleaning is a must.
  • For more formal and less attended places such as bedrooms, dining rooms and lounge rooms, flat or low sheen acrylic or vinyl’s are widely used, so that the matt finish goes well with the atmosphere.
  • “Ceiling Whites” are highly suggested for ceiling color. Because they are flat in sheen and mask areas imperfections.
  • If you still don’t have any idea, you can seek help from our expert Paint Department to suggest the best paint for your surface.

How to estimate the quantity of paint required?

  • To check the quantity of paint that will be required for flat surfaces such as walls, ceilings, and doors, just double their length by their height, excluding the areas like doors and windows opening. This will give you an exact surface area to be painted. To estimate how much paint is needed for the window and glass door frames, multiply their width by their height and divide by five.
  • Ensure to use one litre of paint per coat for every 16 sq-metres to be painted. If the surfaces are hard or porous, make sure to add an additional 20% to this amount.

Tip – You can accentuate recessed wall or built-in shelves by painting it in a colour contrasting to the remaining room surfaces.

Choosing Your Tools

  • Purchase the best painting tools that you can afford. If properly looked after, good brushes and rollers, can serve perfectly well for years and speed up the job delivering superior finishes.
  • Choose the roller sleeve on the basis of the area you’re painting and the paint you’re using.
    – Use a 10mm nap sleeve, for water-based paints on smooth areas and use a 20 mm or 22 mm nap sleeve, for water-based paints on hard areas.

– Use a 6mm mohair nap sleeve or a 5mm foam sleeve, when rolling on oil-based paints or solvents.

How to use a paint roller on a wall?

  • If you need a valuable information on choosing, using and handling the paint rollers and sleeves, search “How to use a paint roller a wall” on the internet.
  • It is a good idea to choose a paint roller with a threaded handle that allows you to an extension. This will reduce the trouble caused in reaching out of high walls and ceilings.


Preparation is a prime key to get a smooth and well-prepared base. It will aid in speeding up the procedure of finishing coats, and give you a great outcome.

New Surfaces

  • Even if it’s a new surface, you will be surprised at the number of scuffs and blemishes they can have. So, smoothly sand the surface, dust off and wash it down by using a sugar soap.
  • Before repairing any imperfections, prime the timber surfaces.
  • Check the plasterboard and plaster any impressions of screw or cracks. Also overfill it by using an interior filler and sand back to get a smooth and even finish.
  • Punch in any screws and fill.
  • Always apply undercoat.
  • To fill any cracks in any cracks on the surfaces, use a flexible gap filler.

The Surfaces Painted In Good Condition

  • When there is no peeling or flaking, wash down the surface properly with a sugar soap, or use an interior paintwork cleaner, to remove grease, dirt and stains of smoke. If there is any mould use sugar soap, make sure to treat it with an anti-mould preparation.
  • Look out for any cracks and overfill by using an interior filler. And, sand to get an even finish.
  • If the existing area is an enamel paint, ensure to sand it properly to remove the gloss. After this apply the undercoat.

The surfaces in poor condition

  • Smoothen the surface after scraping away any flakes and blisters.
  • Use a primer or undercoat to touch up the bare surface areas.
  • If there is a really bad paintwork on a surface, it should be scraped right back to the bare surface.
  • After this sand and wash down the surface with sugar soap and treat as a new area.
  • If the surface of your wall is in a particularly poor condition, it is a great idea to get the help of a gib stopper. That way you’ll get the best possible surface to paint. It is cost-effective and is well worth to get a professional looking finish.
  • When plastering your walls, they will be required to be dusted, sanded, dusted and then painted by using an oil-based pigmented sealer. This gives the plaster something to bond to.

Applying the Paint

  • If you are planning on painting the entire room, make sure to remove all the furniture if possible. Also, protect your floors with a drop sheet.
  • Ensure to mix the paint thoroughly and use a paint stirrer to stir from the bottom upwards rather than just around. Make sure to stir until all the paint is very smooth and you get an even colour.
  • Start painting the ceiling first and cut in the edges by using a brush which will give a fine edge around the scotia, i.e. the mouldings through which the line where the wall and ceiling join is covered.
    – Start from the darkest corner of the room towards the light and, fill in the main surface area.
    – It is better to work in narrow strips, so you can clearly check from where you have started and stopped.
    – Make sure to start painting around the ceiling light fittings and then complete the remaining portion of that band.
  • After this, start with the walls. First start in the corners of the room with a paint brush, cutting into hedges of the walls, window and then door frames.
    – Use a roller to fill the main areas and start in an upwards direction first, moving across the area following an “M” pattern before touching up the paint in an upward and downward motion.
    – Before the paint has dried, ensure the roller covers the cut in surfaces. So as to avoid the brush marks and a ‘framed’ look.

Always paint your skirting and the remaining of your finishing line in the last.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

2 × five =

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Recent Posts

arch image